Friday was a big tide, in fact a very big tide. The tidal range of 11.8 metres resulted in a significant movement of water. As it approached low tide we were able to go walking on the sea bed.
We met at La Rocque Harbour, the south east corner of the Island. Unfortunately the blue skies and sunshine from the west coast were replaced by an approaching fog. It was rolling in from the sea and obscuring all the physical features.
Icho Tower was about 1.5 miles away, the benefits of GPS ensuring that we had this information, but at times we could see less than a hundred metres. Heading so far offshore in the fog requires confidence in your navigation abilities. So for the first time in nearly 60 years of living in Jersey, when walking I had to walk on a compass bearing to ensure that we found our planned destination, Icho Tower.
Icho Tower appeared out of the mist, when we were less than 100 metres away, according to the GPS. The tower was built in 1811, part of the coastal defenses designed to protect the Island from possible French invasion. It is easily seen whilst driving along the coastal road at Le Hocq but visiting on foot is restricted to the larger spring tides. We decided to have lunch in the hope that the water retreated from the deeper gullies before we headed east towards Seymour Tower.
Seymour Tower is unique among the defensive towers, which are found around the coast of Jersey, in that it is square. It was built in 1782, a direct consequence of the 1781 invasion, which resulted in the Battle of Jersey. Today it is a unique place to stay overnight, with bookings available through Jersey Heritage. It lies at the heart of the RAMSAR site, situated off the south east corner of Jersey.
The screen shot above, really does indicate that we were walking on the sea bed. As the tide drops, particularly on the larger spring tides, a unique coastal environment is exposed. A great place to explore but somewhere, which needs accurate planning to avoid being cut off by the tide.
There are a few paddles in Jersey, which visiting and local sea kayakers, should aspire to complete. One of these is to paddle around, what is referred to as “The Towers”. This refers to two towers, which are located to the south east of the island, Seymour and Icho.
The Jersey Canoe Club has run weekly Sunday morning sessions for nearly 45 years and this week it was the turn of The Towers, to be the venue. Weather and tidal conditions were such that quite a few members had guessed the venue several days in advance, well before the WhatsApp message was sent out, on the Saturday.
Seymour and Icho Towers
Of the two towers Seymour is the oldest, being built in 1782, the year after French troops landed nearby, which resulted in the Battle of Jersey. Our initial target was Icho Tower, just over 1 mile offshore. Low an squat compared to the older towers, it is based on the design of towers found at Mortella Point, Corsica.
They probably contained a garrison of 12 soldiers and a sergeant, but today they are largely the preserve of sea birds. Today it was curlews and sandwich terns but some winters a spoonbill has started to call Icho home.
From Icho we headed virtually east towards Seymour, the final push of the flooding tide ensured that at times our speed over the ground was nearly 6 knots. Seymour Tower has been refurbished and is available for rent from Jersey Heritage, accompanied by a guide. Today a family was in residence so landing was not an option.
Instead we turned offshore to visit Karame Beacon, which is one of the many navigation marks in the area. The tide was flowing with a degree of speed around the rocks, which provided some enjoyment. From there it was a ferry glide in excess of a mile into the coast at La Rocque, a small harbour with signicant place in Jersey’s history. Baron Philippe de Rullecourt, landed here on the 6th January 1781, with approximately 1,400 French troops. The subsequent Battle of Jersey, in the Royal Square resulted in the defeat of the French forces.
Returning from the towers, we followed the coast back towards Le Hocq. Conditions were just perfect, in fact quite amazing for the beginning of September. Conditions were such that we had to stop and roll, as well as having a swim in the crystal clear waters. It will be possibly 9 months, before we experience such conditions again. Great memories to help us through the winter months.
Going away on a kayaking trip is always enjoyable but there is always something satisfying about coming home. Perhaps it is because most times I return home it is on an aircraft, so it is a very direct transition from holiday to home.
Landing on Tuesday evening I had received my first invite to go paddling before we had arrived at the gate, the welcome vibration of a WhatsApp on the phone. In complete contrast to the weather before I had been away and whilst I was away, the forecast for Wednesday was pretty good. No “beast from the east” this week.
Wednesday morning dawned with light winds and cloudless skies, we were leaving from St Catherine’s, the home of the Jersey Canoe Club, and heading south towards Seymour Tower. This isn’t a section of coast, which screams of dramatic scenery. It is rather more gentle, with a fascinating historical background and then a unique coastal environment, which is exposed as the tide drops, particularly off the south east corner.
We headed towards Seymour Tower, which was built in 1782 in response to the invasion of Jersey by French troops in January 1781. It is now a unique place to spend an evening, with a qualified guide from Jersey Heritage. Lunch was a rather hurried affair as the tidal range was 9.5 metres. Not a particularly large spring tide but we were in the third hour after high water so the water was dropping at nearly 4cm a minute. Resulting in a potentially long walk!
Returning to St Catherine’s we meandered through the reefs towards Karame Beacon before returning north to our starting point. It was one of those days which hints of summer, light winds, blue skies and water of a surprising clarity.
A perfect return to my Island home.
Saturday dawned windy yet again with the promise of substantial showers around in the afternoon so I decided to head out towards Seymour Tower, off the south east corner of the Island. Due to the large tidal range (almost 12 metres on the larger tides) a virtually unique coastal environment is exposed twice a day, particularly on Spring Tides. For several hours, each day, the opportunity of walking around on the sea bed presents itself and I took full advantage of the opportunity yesterday. Amazingly I was the only person who seemed to want to experience the delights of this corner of the Island on blustery Saturday in January.