I have to admit that I had never been that attracted by the idea of a visit to Australia. This was largely a feeling based on ignorance as opposed to a decision based on facts. Therefore, when I saw the International Sea Kayaking Educators Symposium advertised, I though this might just be the catalyst I needed to head towards the southern hemisphere.
What appealed about the Symposium and helped justify the hours spent on the aircraft reaching Melbourne, was the 4 day pre-symposium paddle. So with a degree of enthusiasm and some slight trepidation I signed up and booked my flights.
This was the story as to how I found myself standing outside the railway station at 06.00 on a cold Thursday morning in Frankston, to the south east of Melbourne. It is an interesting experience trying to identify other sea kayakers amongst the early morning commuters. The North Face bags and beards were a bit of a give away with the males!
So 6 prospective kayakers from 4 different countries found ourselves heading towards Port Albert. It was here that we met the other people who had taken advantage of the opportunity to participate in the 4 day paddle. In total there were about 20 of us, with a third from the UK, which I have to admit I found a bit surprising.
As with all trips some people were quicker than others at getting ready for departure, but straight after lunch we were ready to go. The big question was “Who had turned on the fan?” The early morning calm had been replaced by an entertaining breeze, which was significantly higher than forecast. Sitting still was not an option.
We fought our way west and south with a speed over the ground that most of the time was well below 2 knots. The wind was certainly taking its toll and producing a very low fun factor. Eventually after just over 5 nautical miles we decided to call it a day, the next possible camp site was quite some way off and so it was with some relief that we lifted the kayaks above the high water mark.
Not a glorious start to my Australian sea kayaking career but it was certainly an interseting experience and the relatively early finish allowed plenty of time to get to know the other people in the group.
What was even better was that the wind was due to drop off over night so as I dropped asleep on my first night in the Australian bush all my thoughts were positive.
Gothenburg is somewhere I hadn’t really considered visiting but when there were cheap flights available back to London on British Airways, it seemed like to good an opportunity to miss. Whilst in the Swedish city it was a great opportunity to get in some kayaking so I booked a two hour rental with Point65, before we left Jersey.
It was just our luck that on the morning concerned there was virtually total cloud cover, for what seemed like the first time in weeks. It didn’t detract from the paddling but meant that the photographs weren’t quite as dramatic as we hoped for.
The Point65 centre was on the water front, easily reached on foot, from the Central Railway station area through the Nordstan shopping centre and an elevated walk way.
If in doubt look for the largest sailing ship you have probably ever seen, the Barken Viking, which is slightly upstream from the Opera House, and should see the racks of kayaks.
We were quickly changed and ready to go. The staff were friendly and in contrast to so many rental locations, we were offered spray decks, without having to ask. On the dockside we were also offered a choice of kayaks, shorter and more stable, longer and with a rudder or even a sea kayak without a rudder. Without hesitation we settled for the latter.
Soon we were turning west from the marina into the main harbour, looking for the entrance to the canal network. On the way we passed a number of ships, including a submarine, which were clearly part of the maritime museum. We were looking for the entrance to the Gota Canal
Paddling through the centre of a large city is always enjoyable, offering a totally different perspective on an urban area, whilst proving to be an item of interest to the pedestrians on the bridges or canal side walks. The distinctive thing about the canal in Gothenburg was just how low most of the bridges were, it set me wandering if the waterway was still navigable. It was quite a surprise therefore to have a tourist boat, the Paddan tour boats, appear around a corner. A knowledge of the rules of the road is vital when kayaking in such restricted waters.
Possibly the most unusual aspect of our paddle around the city was the need to press a button to change the traffic lights. Construction of a new bridge was underway and there was a button, which it was necessary to press to obtain the green light to proceed. This was certainly a novel experience for me.
We entered the main harbour and although it was literally a couple of hundred metres back we decided to return the way we had come. The canal route was probably six or seven times longer and certainly more interesting. Once you have seen one large car ferry in the distance you have seen them all, as far as I am concerned.
Sadly we didn’t get to press the traffic light button this time, one of the tourist boats was heading in the same direction as us and the lights had already been changed, so we just tucked in behind.
On the return journey we did see “John Scotts Brewery” though. Probably my main paddling partner in the 1980’s and early 90’s was Peter Scott, whose dad is John Scott. We felt it only appropriate to go and have a pint in honour of Pete’s dad in his namesakes pub! A great way to celebrate a lovely mornings paddle.
I have written in previous posts how much I enjoy the opportunity to paddle around a city. Gaining a totally different perspective to that gained by those visitors who restrict themselves to dry land activities. Recently we had the opportunity to paddle around Copenhagen.
I must admit that I was slightly apprehensive as it was the first time that I had been in a closed cockpit kayak since I ruptured my achilles at the beginning of April. Fortunately we were in a double kayak, which meant that it had a relatively large cockpit and if started to feel rather tired I had Nicky as an extra engine.
We booked our tour with Kayak Republic, who are conveniently located in the centre of Copenhagen. We we were quite a large and diverse group who headed away from the dock side at the kayak rental store. It was also clear that there was a broad spectrum of ability, but most soon slipped confidently in a paddling rhythm.
It wasn’t a particularly long paddle but it did add an extra dimension to our visit to Copenhagen, which was to actually see Paul Simon, in concert, on his farewell tour but that’s another story.
One of the pleasures of my week is listening to Paddling Adventures Radio, a podcast from Canada. Essentially Sean Rowley and Derek Specht chat about a range of topics related to all aspects of paddle sport. This evenings opening article on people wearing buoyancy aids (PFD’s) got me thinking.
My first buoyancy aid, which I had for Christmas at the end of the 1960’s, was filled with kapok, a vegetable material, which was used in life saving devices in the Second World War. I feel certain that it must have been one of the last buoyancy aids to contain kapok. Towards the end of the 1970’s, most paddlers in the UK were wearing life jackets, which met the specifications of BS 3595. They were designed to support an unconscious person in the water, if the inherent solid buoyancy had been topped up with air.
The only disadvantage, being that they were cumbersome and seriously uncomfortable. As a consequence many paddlers used to carry them under the rear deck elastics as opposed to wearing them on the person. As shown by the photograph of Nicky taken off the Ecrehous, in the summer of 1979. How that contrasts with the photograph taken last summer, off the west coast of Greenland, where everybody is properly equipped.
I can’t remember the last time I paddled to the Ecrehous, with my buoyancy aid under the deck elastics. It must be at least 20 years ago. Putting on a buoyancy aid is now an automatic reaction. The last time I remember consciously not putting on my PFD was on a seriously hot, flat calm day in Baja, when I judged that I was more at risk from heat exhaustion than from an unexpected capsize.
There is no doubt that equipment has improved dramatically over the last 50 years that I have been kayaking and the current buoyancy aids are far more comfortable to wear than their predecessors. So the best advice is to wear it.
Another point to consider is the explosion in paddle sports in recent years, it is rare to be alone on the water nowadays. Mid week in January, on a rainy windy day doesn’t guarantee isolation in 2018.
Regularly whilst out paddling we come across paddlers, particularly on sit on tops, and it is amazing how many of those paddlers aren’t wearing buoyancy aids. What is particularly scary is when you see 3 people, normally 2 adults and a child on a double sit on top, and none of them wearing buoyancy aids.
There are 2 potential responses, paddle over and have a friendly word, I have done this a few times as people on SOT’s have been approaching tide races, but my advice has always been ignored. The other response is to hope that by wearing the appropriate equipment you will be a positive role model and raise people’s awareness of the need to wear buoyancy aids.
On Thursday morning we received a telephone call from Gordon Brown with the very sad news of the passing of Duncan Winning. Duncan was an immensely influential figure in the world of sea kayaking but more importantly he was an incredibly generous individual and thoroughly decent person.
I first met Duncan in May 1992, when he attended the first Jersey Sea Kayaking Symposium, and was one of only two people from off the island who attended every one. Always willing to give his time and energy to ensuring that the event was a success.
Douglas Wilcox has written eloquently about Duncan and some of their shared experiences on his blog and I would recommend that you read his post.
There is very little that I could add except to mention two things, firstly Duncan did achieve some form of local fame in 1999, when he was able to paddle through the centre of his home town of Largs, due to flooding. Secondly in 1998 at the Jersey Symposium he built a junior sea kayak from wood, the Jersey Junior, over the course of 3 days. A beautiful kayak, which is still treasured by my family.
I last saw Duncan in January when Nicky and myself called in to see Duncan and went out for lunch at the local restaurant. Although he was quite at times the passion that he had for kayaking still shone through with that glint in his eye.
After lunch we sat looking across to Cumbrae, talking about the great times we had on the island in the 1990’s at the Scottish Sea Kayak Symposiums. Duncan said that he wouldn’t be able to attend the event this year but we did make tentative arrangements to call in and see whilst traveling to the event from Jersey, sadly that is not to be.
I feel fortunate to have known Duncan Winning for over 25 years, spending many happy days on the water with him both in Jersey and Scotland. He will be sadly missed, not just by his family but by the wider kayaking community.
A few years ago one of our nephews and a niece weren’t sure what to do at Christmas so we invited them to join us in Jersey. On Christmas Eve we have been to the Corbiere Phare for lunch for years. The views from the restaurant across to Corbiere Lighthouse are truly spectacular although they are virtually a daily view for us. For people used to living in London and Barcelona, they are something quite out of the ordinary.
Perhaps inspired by the view or the exciting talk of potential activities in Jersey, we were off to St Brelade’s straight after the meal to go and jump off the pier. We did wear wet suits, that afternoon, to participate in this traditional Jersey activity.
Christmas Day has, for over 40 years, been marked by the Jersey Canoe Club, with an 11.00 o’clock swim in the sea, wet suits not allowed. Toby and Katie joined the throng of members who jumped in the sea at St Catherine’s on Christmas morning. Boxing Day has for years seen the Club members meet at Ouaisne, for a short paddle, a couple of hours at the most before retiring for festive drinks.
After the excitement of the previous 2 days Toby was encouraged to join us for a paddle and in reality he did pretty well. It just so happened that the Club had a close relationship with the Tower Hamlets Canoe Club, based at Shadwell Basin, in the east of London, and quite conveniently Toby lived just up the road. The rest as they say is history.
Since that day kayaking has been a large part of Toby’s life, he has paddled all over the UK, has been to Greenland with us and this summer is returning to lead his own group in Disko Bay. The really great news though is that last Friday it was announced that he has received a Winston Churchill Fellowship for his project “Moderate Becoming Good Later.”
Over the years Toby has faced his own personal challenges, which he has met with a positive approach to life. This summer he embarks on the challenge to kayak in all the Shipping Forecast areas, which are on the forecast read out on the BBC Radio 4. For many people in Britain the Shipping Forecast forms part of our lives, even if we are not out on the high seas. Despite all of the advances in how we can access up to date and accurate weather information the BBC still broadcast 4 times a day the Shipping Forecast.
How many of us have lay in our tents, as the fabric flapped and the rain beat down, whilst we turned the dial to LW, in the hope of a positive Forecast allowing us the opportunity to paddle in the morning?
Toby has launched his blog “Moderate Becoming Good Later“, I am sure most of you are aware of why he selected that title but if not then tune into Radio 4 and all will be revealed.
What had been flat calm water, with not a ripple in sight, the night before was a bit different when we woke up. After 10 days of constant north easterly or easterly winds we woke to a light north westerly breeze. Not enough to put us off the paddle to Dangriga, just an inconvenience.
The tent was dropped and the rest of the equipment packed away, just after 06.00. There were some big clouds around, which normally introduce significant increases in wind speed when they pass by overhead. We monitored their direction of travel and decided that they were probably going to miss us.
At 06.50 we pushed away from the shore and settled into a steady rhythm, despite the headwind, according to the GPS, our speed over the ground was in the region of 3.5 knots, which we were pretty pleased with. Within 15 minutes though the speed had dropped to 2.5 knots and frequently less and it was to remain like that for the next 3 hours.
Although we were on spring tides, the tidal range on the day was only 0.7 feet, not that great. We actually felt that the movement of water was probably an ocean current, driven by the frequent north easterly trade winds. Whatever the cause it was a bit of inconvenience for us, as we had an 8 mile crossing to complete. As soon as we stopped paddling the track on the GPS showed that we were being pushed south at nearly 1.5 knots, rather frustrating when we were heading north.
In addition we had to continually keep an eye on the weather, there were some large cells around but all missed us by quite some distance, so at least that was something we didn’t need to worry unnecessarily about.
Gradually the buildings in Dangriga started to take shape, the sports hall to the south of the town , was the first which was clearly identified. The radio towers were perfect for leading the way back to the town.
After 3 hours 15 minutes the bows of the kayaks ran up onto the beach in front of the Islands Expedition building in Dangriga. The conclusion of some really enjoyable sea kayaking through an eco system we have rarely been exposed to. This was not wilderness kayaking, it requires planning and the willingness to camp in specific locations but for those paddlers who are interested in bird life and snorkelling Belize is a destination well worth considering.
We needed to be back in Dangriga on Sunday morning, with the shortest crossing being approximately 8 nautical miles. It appears that there used to be a number of campgrounds in the area but these have closed as the luxury resorts have spread. These closures can prove to be a challenge as the closest Caye with any form of formal camping is probably Hangman’s Caye, which is in the northern part of the Blue Ground Range. Paddling from there into Dangriga would add quite a bit to the crossing. We were going to need to indulge in some discreet camping, not something we were certain was going to be that easy.
So when we left Billy Hawk Caye, we had no idea where we going to spend the night. We savoured our last paddle north, though the Blue Ground Range before crossing to Ragged Caye and then further north. As luck would have it we came across a delightful sandy beach, with shade provided by some trees, on an island with nobody else there.
As the day had progressed the north easterly wind picked up, proving to be quite lively at times. We passed a couple of hours reading and writing log books before the attraction of the water became to much to ignore. Launching, we paddled around a couple of islands as well as heading out to Man of War Caye, a bird reserve.
The dominant species is the Magnificent Frigate Bird, with significant numbers soaring overhead as well as those perched in the trees. We were also hoping to see the Brown Bobbies, and were fortunate enough to see a couple as we sat there admiring the avian spectacle.
All birded out, we returned to commence our discreet camping. Whilst cooking the evening meal we spent sometime chatting about paddlesports and camping with a person on a SUP who just happened to be passing by. He was the only other person we spoke to all day.
After yet another memorable sunset and rapid onset of darkness we quickly put up the tent, fairly confident that we were going to have an undisturbed night. There are so many patches of shallow water, posing significant navigational hazards there is almost no boat traffic after dark, so nobody was going to turn up and surprise us. It was an early night as we needed to be up by 05.30 the following morning ready for our crossing to Dangriga.
One item of equipment which had proved to be completely surplus on this trip, apart from my fleece, was our lightweight sleeping bags. Not once had they come out of their dry bag. I did unpack the silk liner every night but so far it hadn’t seen any use. In the middle of the night though, I did need to climb into the silk bag, not because of a drop in temperature but due to the fact that the wind had changed direction and was blowing into the tent. The first 10 days we had been in Belize the wind had been a constant north easterly, the direction we needed for the Sunday morning crossing, but by midnight, we definitely had a north westerly, a head wind. The next 12 hours could prove interesting.
After the almost cosmopolitan atmosphere of South Water Caye we crossed to Billy Hawk Caye, for two nights in the Blue Ground Range. We started by heading across to Twin Caye, firstly to reduce the length of the crossing and secondly in the hope of seeing a manatee. We succeeded with the first but sadly failed with the second objective, although we did encounter a range of interesting birds.
From the north of Twin Caye we used the north easterly trade winds to assist our journey to the Blue Ground Range. We could see a couple of islands in the distance but knew that there were far more, the coasts merging into what seemed like a single mangrove wall. The narrow creeks between only emerging at the last minute.
All of the islands have some form of development on, some with very expensive properties and what looks like full time staff. Landing places are not easy to find so it is necessary to plan ahead.
We were heading for Billy Hawk Caye, which is owned by the Sabah family and where we knew it is possible to camp. The island is identified by the fact that it has a building with a thatched roof towards its northern end, or you could just put the co-ordinates in your GPS. The best place to land is the sandy beach on the west of the island.
There is plenty of room for tents or if you want to spoil yourself there are other accommodation options, which can be booked online. It is also possible to purchase meals, we chose to cook our own meals but pay for the beer. A cold Belikin is always welcome after a hot day on the water.
It is such a relaxing place to stay we decided to remain a second night, which gave us more time to explore the Blue Ground Range. There are numerous small islands, mostly with buildings on, one small island is currently for sale for about $450,000. Apparently the owner is “motivated to sell” so you might be able to get a lower price.
The eastern side of the island group is the most interesting from a paddling perspective, following numerous narrow inlets and just enjoying the tranquility. We ended up close to the southern end of the small archipelago, at Bread and Butter Caye, what a lovely spot. It is also possible to stay here but for us the real pleasure was tying the kayaks alongside the dock and taking advantage of the small quayside bar. It really was a delightful place to pass an hour or so.
We returned to Billy Hawk Caye for the evening and possibly the best demonstration of bioluminescence I think I have ever seen. The sun rapidly dropped behind the coastal mountains and almost immediately on the east of the island the sea came alive. Streaks of bioluminescence moved towards the island, as I felt driven by the wind, whilst fish darting past, left bright green trails in the water. A real memorable end to our last day on Billy Hawk Caye.
We knew that the following morning we would be heading north to place ourselves in an appropriate position for the crossing back to Dangriga the next day.
Our destination for the day was South Water Caye, a relatively straightforward 5 nautical miles to the south, which is easy to find. It is possible to see it and I think most kayakers would find it by following the reef.
We were still interested in manatees though, so once again we crossed to Tobacco Range and like the day before our search was fruitless. Following the mangrove tour we crossed directly to Twin Caye. Although the Admiralty Chart of the area doesn’t show it, there is a navigable channel running north south through the Caye. In my limited experience it looked like perfect manatee territory but they clearly had other ideas and were elsewhere. We were rewarded with some great views of White Ibis though, a bird I am not certain I have seen before.
From Twin Caye we headed east towards South Water Caye, one of the most developed cayes in the area. There is a campsite on the island, which is being developed by Rich from New Jersey. Look for the green “Bamboo” sign and you have arrived.
There are 3 resorts on the Island so there is always the excuse to go in search of the bar at “Happy Hour”, there is also the possibility of finding food, but we decided to be self sufficient.
We went snorkelling to the south of South Water Caye and there is good snorkelling on the east side but it is not always easy to access the water. There were a number of private signs on the land and part of the beach was roped off with private signs. Not being able to walk along a section of beach because it is private is completely alien to somebody from the UK.
The one thing that was a pleasant surprise was the almost total lack of biting insects. We had travelled prepared with insect repellent, long sleeved shirts and trousers and they all stayed firmly in the dry bags. Shorts and t shirts are essential, the fleece has not been required so far, and neither is my lightweight sleeping bag. The silk liner is more than adequate. There is so much to learn about kayaking in the tropics!